It’s August 14th and we no plans for the next day.
“Ferragosto” is a big holiday in Sardinia and wherever we go, it is going to be a madhouse, so we decide to stay home. It takes somebody coming up with a tempting proposal though and here we are, on the road again. When my friend Massimo says we can go to visit the Ogliastra, on the east coast, I gladly agree with him since I’ve never been there (yeah, it seems I’ve never been anywhere). It’s not a day trip since it’s quite far from where we are, so we need to look for a place where to spend the night. Somebody might think this is a crazy thing to do, considering the upcoming holiday, but we are lucky and find a place to stay in Posada, thanks to a friend from Nuoro and to the goodness of the Guparza owner that offers us his home in the village, since his hotel is sold out.
We spend the afternoon in Cala Liberotto. The Sardinian sea will never cease to impress me. According to the area, the colors keep changing from time to time. You can go from finding very fine and candid sands and turquoise waters to gold sands and emerald green sea, from smooth rocks to rocks as sharp as knives. The ultimate goal of this trip is to visit the famous coves of this region. Cala Mariolu, Cala Sisine, Cala Luna and Cala Goritze are the most popular ones, but this area is rich with small bays nestled within very high cliffs. One can reach most of these places only by walking along dirt roads in the middle of the wilderness, by boat, or for the most courageous and expert ones, by rock climbing.
We go by boat, on a barge full of sweaty tourist that kind of reminds me of the immigrant boats coming from the coasts of Africa and Albania to the Italian shores. One quick stop in Orosei to pick up more people and we leave again soon. The view of the coastal area is such that I forget my surroundings and as we all know, beggars cannot be choosers!! It’s all good anyway. I’ve been dreaming about Cala Mariolu since the first time I saw a picture once in a book, so I’m over the moon by now. It’s even more beautiful than words can say. I would have gladly avoided the mob scene: people keep coming and going and I really have to elbow them to find a little spot for myself.
A friendly advise: if you planning to visit, please do so during spring or fall, but do not come here during summertime. I promise myself I will be back when it’s more peaceful.
Second stop: Cala Luna.
This is another place you see in postcards. I’ve known it through tourist brochures, where the pictures are taken from above to show the little river the crosses the beach and the green mountains all around.
Too many people here. The captain then has two proposals: first, we have wait for about one hour to be able to get to the shore since we have few barges in front of us and have little time to spend there, or we can skip this stop and go straight to Cala Sisine, where we can stay for few hours. The eventuality to be on the boat all together for such a long time is not appealing at all so it’s an unanimous decision: we will got to Cala Sisine. Here the pebbles on the beach are all different colors, while in Cala Mariolu they were so white and bright white that the cove is known as “Snow Flake”. Around the beach, the pick of the hills work as a beautiful picture frame and the junipers seems to steadily climb the rocks around us.
We need to skip Cala Goritze. We can only see it from afar and admire the famous pinnacle and the rocky bow on the water, the blue of the sea so inviting that I could jump in it, if I wasn’t afraid to be left behind. Once we reach home is already dark. It’s been a long day but it was all worthy. At least now we have an idea of how gorgeous this place is.
One thing for sure: I will have to come back again during a different season so to enjoy it in its entire beauty.